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Real Mexico is where I live, rather than in resort Mexico. No beaches, artist colonies, high-rise resorts with all-inclusive services, time-share sales goons here. Just us folks. Ana said that all the restaurants in the area used to be open air, palapa style with palm or bamboo roofs, just like the place where we went to enjoy breakfast Sunday morning, on the edge of San Marcos. The kitchen is over at one end beneath its own bamboo roof, a counter island between the half...